Відео

Excellent explanation. Thank you.

Standard American Pattern Files: Bastard -> Second Cut -> Smooth Cut .... not sure what you meant about the bastard being "in-between?" A rasp is more course of course but so is this Thia Special I have hanging on the wall. And their are plenty of Swiss pattern file which are double cut, in fact all of my Swiss made Nicholson file are double cut. Ill be happy to send you one if you? and toss in one of my favorites (6" Hand double cut Nicholson USA new old stock) let me know where if you want. Great video btw

ILL WATCH A VIDEO ON FILES ! PUSH PULL DRAW ANGEL ect... Best cleaning methods file card, wire brush or synthetic. What direction do you brush? should you star with the corners?

I would like to see how corrosion free stacks up. They claim a treatment will last up to 18 months.

The famous Stuart. I am going. I’ll get to meet you. Looking forward to it!

Thanks first time watcher and it wont be the last great content and well done

.3748 ?

I'm in Windsor Ontario I have to work that day i should stop in at the 1 in Windsor

I might be up that way. If I'm passing through, I'll be sure to stop by. Unlike the other folks replying, I don't have anything to do at work for a couple months.

can you provide a link to your "shop Horseplay" video please. The one where you put on the war paint. Thank you.

I would have loved to join you, but Thursdays are crazy work days :(

I'd love to swing by, but I doubt my job would allow a sixteen hour lunch detour. Now if I can figure out what is wrong with my time machine...

You “DEFINITELY” and example of a good teacher … breaking everything down in more simpler way!!!! Thank you Sir 👌💯

lmao

Corrosion X

For turning between centers 4:52, what if the 3 jaw chuck holding the dead center has some error, e.g., 0.2 mm? I think the dead center is then off center and the piece starts to turn around another point instead of the center drilled point (probably leading to a taper). Am I correct or did I miss something?

That a good sized shop .

Hello Stuart, ole Buddy!! How have you been, and how's your new shop going?? I am considering, changing my name now, thanks to you!! Not really, it's actually kinda catchy, and others, seem to like it too!! You did a really good job!! P. S. Do you think we should get a patten Attorney?? We don't want to be plagiarized, after all, over a classic name? Nelson Wha-hitee

Nelson White 😂

hey man! great video, i need to revamp my compressor setup and i love the ideas you gave me! I couldnt help but notice theres a gold attachment on your bench grinder which looks like it should be for sharpening drill bits, can you tell me what that is? ive been looking for something like that for awhile now!

Great vid!!! Beginning with a whiteboard / chalkboard explanation of the theory would have helped. Also you may consider a negative tool top rake? Thanks!!!!

Running a lathe at 2000 RPM without the chuck clamping down on something is not a safe practice. A shop teacher should know better!

tom is my interview GL to me

Please try surface shield by Blaster. $8 a can here, Great videos 👍

Try surface shield by Blaster please. Great videos 👍

Very clear instructions

The PopMech metal shaper is the project highest on my wish list!

Thanks mate it really helps me a lot

Could you also do a sample using Turtle Wax, or Mother's, without wiping off the residue.

I use full profile inserts, problem solved

My lathe have up to 4 TPI setting, and i want 4 tpi double start, how to do it? Any idea.?

Well done Stewart, as always, You have a special skill for teaching that is greatly appreciated, and of course a good since of humor. Keep the videos coming.

Great vid 👍

Wait I’m confused, was WD40 not the clear winner?

Very useful Stuart. I understood the gear method and the dti method, but I did not understand the threading dial method. The threading dial had 4 numbers and 4 half marks right (?) so how does 13/24 come into it? I guess it will come to me when I've thought about it enough. I have a metric lathe so more research is required on that too. But to cut imperial multi start it will have to be the dial or gear method. Cheers

Stuart, I am trying to learn to thread on my 1236 , compound at 29.5 as better people suggest using carbide 60 deg. insert and using a DRO. No body ever showed the angle of the tool holder and insert so I set it at 90deg. to the material axis, starts great but as I cut a 1.75 met. pitch after about 3 passes then check with thread gauge it shows pitch is moving down towards 1.5 mm and less. I noticed your single point cutter is angled to towards the tail stock i.e not at 90deg. to the material axis line, would this be why I am failing to maintain 1.75 mm pitch even when using the compound , if so what is the correct approach angle to set the insert at. signed ( an old fart who is running out of time)

Too much talking, no demonstration at all.

W-D 40 doesn't do nearly as well in the south. Things will rust inside a garage with wd40 on it

Great video! Im from the uk, i was taught the Metric system in school, but my workplace does the majority of there work for the states so the Imperial system has become second nature to me and my prefered method. My vast collection of analog measuring tools are all imperial, with the exception of one which is a 0-25mm Mic still in its plastic wrapper brand new from +10 years ago

Chocopull? Looks like a paint, makes big claims

👍🏻

Please make a video how to cut CAM on a lathe machine.

How we can identify the multistart thread without seeing it's ends and without even touching it physically?

Thanks - I read that the skin of the apollo lunar module (LEM) was 1/1000 inch - so about paper thickness or maybe modern coke can

alot of people recommend Ballistol in my part of the world

Good work!

😂

Just found your channel, subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos. Since I'm new here, my comments/suggestions might have already brought up. With metal testing, have you considered spraying the samples with brake cleaner first? That stuff will remove almost any transparent coating, without leaving a coating, ensuring your samples are fully clean. I don't know if it would have helped in the last two you tested if the metals are actually different, but just a thought. Also, have you considered wrapping the samples in plastic to retain the moisture? It would speed the process up considerably. It seems you prefer actual conditions and that is commendable, but if each metal section was subject to the same conditions, even if not outside, they should still yield a similar result. Anyway, I really like your approach to testing and look forward to seeing more.

Brilliant video thank you

This is 6 years later, so it may not matter, but I always first check the inside of the taper on the chuck, near the outside edge and back at the inside edge. Doing both tells you whether it’s parallel to the center if rotation, or is slightly angled, giving wobble. It also tells you whether the chuck itself is concentric. Only checking it with a collet means that you’re checking the runout of the chuck and the collet. If the collet has too much runout, when you adjust it, you’re only adjusting it for that one collet, turned the way you inserted it into the chuck that one time. It’s best to check the collet by rotating it 90 degrees and checking each time for a full rotation. If these are really good collets, it’s not a problem, but if they’re no brand versions, they could be off by several thousandths. So do that check, and mark the chuck and every collet where it aligns to that make with the least runout.